Installation
Installation guide
Even the best block loses its performance if it is laid wrongly. This page is written for the person laying it, not for the archive.
Laying a ceramic wall, stage by stage
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01
Prepare the bed
The surface under the first course must be clean, level and free of dust. Check the first course with a straightedge and a laser level; an error here is amplified up the height of the wall.
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02
The right mortar
A 1:5 sand–cement mortar or a ready-mixed masonry mortar. It should be workable but not sloppy. Consumption for each product is on its datasheet.
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03
Damp the block
Damp on the surface, not soaked. A dry block draws the water out of the mortar; a wet one destroys adhesion.
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04
Coursing
A full, even bed joint. With tongue-and-groove the perpend joint disappears. Check plumb and level every third course.
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05
Lintels
No opening is built without a lintel. A ceramic lintel acts as permanent formwork and keeps the thermal continuity of the facade.
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06
Tying into the frame
An infill wall must be restrained to the frame with posts and ties per the seismic requirements. This is the stage inspections pick up most often.
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07
Chasing for services
Vertical chases are allowed. A horizontal chase must not exceed one third of the wall thickness and must be cut with a disc, not knocked out.
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08
Finishing
Give the wall at least forty-eight hours before plastering. The block’s grooved face provides the key for the render.